Seed-starting schedules work backward. UNH Extension's planting fact sheet gives each crop a number of weeks from sowing until transplant, and a UNH Extension Master Gardener answer shows the count: to transplant on May 27, sow seeds that need 6 to 8 weeks between April 1 and April 15. This calculator does that count for 19 crops started indoors, then adds what the weeks alone do not tell you: when the first seedlings should appear and when to start hardening them off. If you do not have a transplant date yet, let the calculator set one from your average last spring frost using UNH's planting-out offsets. Finding that frost date is covered in frost dates explained; mix, lights and care between sowing and transplant are covered in seed starting indoors.
The example date is UNH's May 27 transplant date; replace it with your own.
| Crop | Transplant | Sow indoors (UNH weeks) | Seedlings up (Iowa State days) | Start hardening off (UMN) | Other sow windows |
|---|
Worked examples
- Tomato, transplant May 27. UNH gives 6–8 weeks from seed to transplant. May 27 minus 56 days is April 1; minus 42 days is April 15, the same window UNH's Master Gardener answer gives. Iowa State lists 6–12 days to germination for tomato at 70–75°F, so seedlings should appear between April 7 (April 1 + 6) and April 27 (April 15 + 12). Hardening off starts May 13.
- Parsley, last frost May 1. UNH sets parsley out 2–3 weeks before the last frost, so the transplant window is April 10 to April 17. With 9–10 weeks indoors, sowing runs from January 30 (April 10 minus 70 days) to February 13 (April 17 minus 63 days). Iowa State's 20–25 days to germination put the first seedlings between February 19 and March 10, so a tray sown on January 30 may show nothing until February 19.
- 1. Sow: May 27 minus 8 weeks (the long end of UNH's 6–8 weeks for tomato) is April 1
- 2. Germination: 6–12 days at 70–75°F for tomato (Iowa State), so seedlings appear April 7–13
- 3. Seedlings grow under lights; these days are already inside UNH's 8 weeks
- 4. Hardening off starts two weeks before transplanting (UMN): May 13
- 5. Transplant: May 27, the date in UNH's worked example
Germination days are inside the weeks
UNH counts its weeks "from sowing until transplant", and Iowa State's column is "weeks sowing to planting". Both start on the day the seed goes in, so the days to germination are already part of the count. Adding them on top would start every crop too early. The calculator uses the germination days for a different job: they tell you when to expect the first seedlings, and so when a tray that shows nothing deserves a closer look.
The gap matters most for slow crops. Parsley's 20–25 days to germination take up about three of its 9–10 weeks indoors; celery's 14–21 days come out of 10–12 weeks. Cabbage-family crops come up in 4–8 days, and Iowa State gives cucumbers and melons 3–10 days.
Iowa State's day counts go with its listed germination temperatures, given as ideal air temperatures in °F. UNH's seed-starting fact sheet calls 65 to 75°F best for most plants, while noting that tomato seed will germinate anywhere between 50 and 95°F. Minnesota Extension warns that potting mix can be as much as 5°F cooler than the room air, and that a seed-starting heat mat should not be plugged into the light timer. Iowa State also says which seeds to cover: most are covered with mix, lettuce needs light to germinate and is pressed into the mix without being covered, and onion and celery are covered only lightly.
The figures used
"Weeks indoors" and "plant out" are from UNH's planting fact sheet. Germination days, temperature, covering and the second week count are from Iowa State. The last column is Montana State's "weeks to transplant size". A dash means the source gives no figure for that crop: Montana State has no rows for basil or parsley and treats kale as direct-seeded; Iowa State lists kohlrabi and lettuce only among crops usually sown directly in the garden.
| Crop | Weeks indoors (UNH) | Plant out vs last frost (UNH) | Days to germinate (Iowa State) | Germination temp, °F (Iowa State) | Seed covering (Iowa State) | Weeks sowing to planting (Iowa State) | Weeks to transplant size (Montana State) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tomato | 6–8 | 1–2 wk after | 6–12 | 70–75 | Cover seed | 5–7 | 6–10 |
| Pepper | 8–10 | 2 wk after | 7–10 | 70–75 | Cover seed | 6–8 | 6–8 |
| Eggplant | 8–10 | 2–3 wk after | 7–10 | 70–75 | Cover seed | 6–8 | 6–10 |
| Basil | 6–8 | 2 wk after | 10–14 | 65–70 | Cover seed | 5–6 | — |
| Parsley | 9–10 | 2–3 wk before | 20–25 | 70–75 | Cover seed | 6–8 | — |
| Celery | 10–12 | After last frost (no week count) | 14–21 | 70–75 | Cover lightly | 10–12 | 10 |
| Onion | 8–10 | 4 wk before | 4–20 | 70–75 | Cover lightly | 8–10 | 4–8 |
| Broccoli | 4–6 | 2–4 wk before | 4–7 | 65–70 | Cover seed | 4–6 | 6–8 |
| Brussels sprouts | 4–6 | 2–4 wk before | 5–8 | 65–70 | Cover seed | 4–6 | 6–8 |
| Cabbage | 4–6 | 4 wk before | 4–7 | 65–70 | Cover seed | 4–6 | 6–8 |
| Cauliflower | 4–6 | 2 wk before | 4–7 | 65–70 | Cover seed | 4–6 | 4–5 |
| Kale | 4–6 | 4 wk before | 4–7 | 65–70 | Cover seed | 4–6 | — |
| Kohlrabi | 4–6 | 4 wk before | 4–7 | 65–70 | Cover seed | — | 6–8 |
| Lettuce | 4–5 | 3–4 wk before | 7–14 | 60–70 | Press in, do not cover (needs light) | — | 4–6 |
| Cucumber | 3–4 | 1–2 wk after | 3–10 | 75–80 | Cover seed | 3–4 | 4 |
| Muskmelon | 3–4 | 2 wk after | 3–10 | 75–80 | Cover seed | 3–4 | 3–4 |
| Summer squash, zucchini | 3–4 | 2 wk after | 5–10 | 75–80 | Cover seed | 3–4 | 4 |
| Winter squash | 3–4 | 2 wk after | 5–10 | 75–80 | Cover seed | 3–4 | 3–4 |
| Pumpkin | 3–4 | 2 wk after | 5–10 | 75–80 | Cover seed | 3–4 | 4 |
UNH lists "melon"; Iowa State and Montana State list muskmelon. Iowa State gives one row for squash and pumpkin. UNH gives celery no week count for planting out, only "after" the last frost, so in frost-date mode the calculator counts celery from the frost date itself; treat that as the earliest date.
Where the sources differ
| Crop | Weeks before transplant, by source |
|---|---|
| Tomato | 6–8 (UNH fact sheet); 5–7 (Iowa State); 6–10 (Montana State). UNH's Master Gardener answer phrases it as six to eight weeks before the last frost, while the fact sheet plants tomatoes out 1–2 weeks after it. |
| Pepper, eggplant | 8–10 (UNH fact sheet); at least 10 weeks indoors (UNH Master Gardener answer); 6–8 (Iowa State); 6–8 for pepper and 6–10 for eggplant (Montana State) |
| Onion | 8–10 (UNH, Iowa State) vs 4–8 (Montana State) |
| Broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts | 4–6 (UNH, Iowa State) vs 6–8 (Montana State) |
| Cucumber | 3–4 (UNH fact sheet, Iowa State); 4 (Montana State); four to six weeks before the planting date (UNH Master Gardener answer) |
| Kale, lettuce | Started indoors by UNH (4–6 and 4–5 weeks); Montana State direct-seeds kale and gives lettuce 4–6 weeks; Iowa State lists lettuce with crops usually sown directly |
Where the ranges disagree, the "Other sow windows" column shows how much the sowing date moves. Montana State's guide asks you to calculate both ends of a range, which gives a window rather than a single day.
Before you rely on the dates
- Regional sources. UNH writes for New Hampshire, where Memorial Day is a conservative last-frost estimate for the central part of the state. Iowa State's example counts back from a May 15 outdoor date. Montana State's guide was written by an MSU Extension horticulture assistant in Yellowstone County. The arithmetic travels; the transplant date has to be yours.
- The frost date is an average, not a guarantee. The frost dates page explains the 10%, 50% and 90% freeze dates; for tender crops, a later transplant date is the cautious input.
- Seed packets. UNH's Master Gardener answer points to the seed packet, calling it one of the best sources of information on starting seeds indoors: packets list days to germination, planting depth and the best soil temperature for germination for that variety.
- Old seed. Minnesota Extension sows two or more seeds per cell when seed is older and germinates less well, then cuts all but the strongest seedling at soil level.
- Direct-sown crops. Beans, peas, carrots, beets and radishes are sown straight into the garden in UNH's table, so they are not in this calculator. The planting calendar gives their outdoor sowing dates and fall cut-offs for 25 crops.
Crop pages carry each crop's full outdoor timing, for example tomatoes, peppers and parsley.
Sources
- University of New Hampshire Extension — Growing Vegetables: When to Plant Your Vegetable Garden (fact sheet)
- University of New Hampshire Extension — How do I know when to start seedlings indoors? (S. Walker, March 2018)
- University of New Hampshire Extension — Starting Plants Indoors from Seed (fact sheet, B. Sideman, rev. April 2017, PDF)
- Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, Yard and Garden — Germination Requirements for Annuals and Vegetables (R. Jauron, A. Steil, reviewed December 2023)
- Montana State University Extension — Can I Grow That Here? Vegetable Seed and Transplant Schedules (MontGuide)
- University of Minnesota Extension — Starting seeds indoors
All sources were opened and checked in October 2026. Rules and figures change; confirm with the original before acting.
More in Planting times & zones
- USDA hardiness zones
Section overview: every page in this section.
- Seed starting indoors: timing, lights and hardening off
Weeks before last frost by crop, containers and mix, warmth and lights, feeding, hardening off and damping-off prevention.
- Planting calendar by frost date
Enter two frost dates; get sow, transplant and fall cut-off dates for 25 crops.
- Frost dates: where to find them, how to read them
Where the numbers come from and what "average" means.
- USDA zone 5
Average winter low −20 to −10°F; frost dates and season lengths for six zone 5 cities.
- USDA zone 6
Average winter low −10 to 0°F; frost dates and season lengths for six zone 6 cities.